The US electrical system is not 120V

เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2020
It's more than 120V. It's even more than the other 120V! It is the sum of the two (and sometimes a different two!) that makes us who we are. Learn about the US electrical system in this not-at-all snarky video!
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  • One of these days I'll tidy up that wire... A minor note; the thing about 208 being 86.7% isn't right for simple resistive loads like heating elements. You'll actually only get 75% the heat on 208! Power (watts) goes up with the square of the voltage. But, if something is designed specifically for 208, you can pull up to 86.7% what you could on 240 with the same amperage.

    • We have switches on (most) power sockets for additional safety. As a benefit, the power point switch is usually more reliable than the equipment power switch, which is often deliberately designed to be a weak point. Think about it; how many electrical appliances fail because the internal power switch has failed? A lot. Ring mains are very simple, not weird. They were designed to minimise significantly the amount of Copper needed for house wiring. The cables can have smaller CSA, because each route around the ring carries around half of the current. Typically, a small house in Britain will have far fewer circuits than one in the USA. I wired my house, with a power ring main to the front, and another to the back, plus a lighting ring. Then I have two spurs; one to the water heater and another to a small workshop. So the main supply box contains 6 isolation switches, one being the main isolator and ground leakage breaker. If I had used the US system, there would be at least 20 breakers, including 19 spurs and the main supply breaker, in my small house. That's a significant saving of Copper, isolators, junction box size, complexity and costs. My terraced house is 150+ years old, with supply cables suited to 100A per house, in 200A pairs, and the supply is single phase, at 234V nominal, so I have 22 kW available to me. In practice I generally have 250 - 253V, giving me 25kW or more, before risking blowing the (non-user-accessible) supply fuse. Modern houses often have individual 200A supplies. 3-phase is generally only supplied to businesses, unless the homeowner requests it and pays for the installation. We do have the facility to supply our houses and schools with 2-phases like yours, and I have used them. Generally, the equipment plugs are like the standard 13A U.K. plugs, but with all three connectors rotated by 90°, keeping the internal 13A fuse. We also have a few 16 A plugs for older electric ovens, and those plugs have round pins. The really old 5A unused round pinned plugs are almost never seen nowadays, because they were essentially for pre-WW2 equipment. Your mains supply being 60 Hz, when most of the world uses 50 Hz, is the most unusual thing about it!

    • @Jarred Jakob I will try it out right now. Seems to be working.

    • i dont know if anyone cares at all but I just hacked my girlfriends Instagram account using Instaportal. You can find it by Googling for InstaPortal password hack :D

    • Actually you can pull 100% by getting more current as long as it doesn't trip the fuse, like all USB power adaptors give same wattage through 110V~250V

    • DocNo27 I put in two natural gas dryers 21 years ago, and have never regretted it a moment. My house was built for electric heat, and a previous owner replace that, and the electric water heater. It's cheap, fast, doesn't smell, and much cleaner (less CO2 and sulfur) than the coal my local electric company burns. I wish I could use a clothes line for efficiency and the fresh smell, but I have allergies to a lot of pollen.

  • I suspect a big reason for the split phase here is because IIRC we _started out_ with 120V and split phase let us beef up to 240V without having to change all the existing stuff

  • liking your videos and this is interesting. Learned quite a bit about the US system I'd never even thought of :) I'll stick with 240V and ring mains tho and yes, funny square plugs :D

  • I love watching your slow decent into cynicism one video at a time. lol

  • great we have 400volts here 3 phase power so you are still short

  • I don't know the formula V = I * R But what I do know is P (watt) = U (voltage) * I (amperage). The lower the voltage the higher the amperage has to be! You may have seen guys letting 30000 volts flow through their bodies, which didn't hurt. But what's dangerous is the amperage, which can kill you even at low numbers!

  • Great, I googled "UK plug foot" and saw pictures I didn't want to. 😐 I advise you not to Google it yourself! But if, you do it at your own risk.

  • i have 3 phase 400v in house and its neat

  • I clicked on your Video , as you look like Matt Gaetz in the thimble.

  • I'm from the Philippines and our plugs are almost similar to your plugs just without the 3rd pin/ground (whatever you call it) and is in 220v. Imported Teslas from the US survives even without the Tesla Supercharging network as long as the car stays within the city and is plugged into a 220v outlet.

  • The complex weed unprecedentedly repeat because protest ignificantly continue apropos a parsimonious ease. aloof, grouchy polyester

  • One of my friend told me he built his house with mostly 240. He stated it is cleaner, stable and a less electric bill.

    • I guess the bill would be lower because so many things won’t run on 240V. There’s no place to plug in his vacuum cleaner so he has to sweep.

  • @22:30 UK people should stfu ... their outlets are as shabby as yours

  • @16:50 Ill be the last to give flak but isnt it a fairly common occurance that those murican transformators come tumbling down from their poles in storm ... ye I dont think that ever happened here... the breaker system is fine, ships use that, a lower base voltage is fine, what you do over there is inelegant but it works and has some upsides, generally the wierdest thing to me is the lack of standards in plugs, frankly each european nation had their own sets but usually within the country or at least within an house youll find generally the same type

  • @15:45 Its safer? ... how unamerican...change it at once!

  • @1:00 thats all good and well bud ... but you do know we run induction cooking plates usually at 380/400V

    • Having only 120V in a kitchen is a limitation in that regard. Our 120V induction plates are only 1800 Watts, which isn’t that much if you have to boil a large pot of water. I would like to have one 240V kitchen outlet for a commercial induction plate, but I’m not sure what the electric code says about that. I know the manufacturer of a leading 240V induction plate says it is not for residential use.

  • Wow. I never cared too much for electric systems of other countries. But the possibility to have the identical plug ins for 120 and 240 Volts and typically no Residual Current Device really scares me off a little, to be honest. My father told me as a child that Residual Current Devices were invented in Austria. Actually Wikipedia states, that it got more or less common in Austria starting from 1957 when Gottfried Biegelmeier constructed those, working at Felten & Guilleaume (F&G). As far as I know, it was already pretty common in the 70ties driven by advertising, but was made compulsory here starting from 1980. So I personally grew up thinking, everybody in the world had it as well. I sometimes hate our Schuco plugs for 240 Volts with 3 Pins, that plug in really hard and even more the mighty Round 400 Volts Plugs that most countryside houses have at home for heavy equipment. But to think you might not have them around and fool proof as I'm used to ... okay, now I like my country for that fact a little more ;-)

  • is that an apple on the top shelf next to the breaker?? lol

  • And we have 400 volts so what

  • 4:50 that house doesn't look very happy... Edit: 8:40 lol imagine if he turned that off and you just hear "aaaAAALLLEEEEEEECC!!!" Edit II: 11:26 ahh yes. The good ol' "Just because you can, does NOT mean you should." Edit III: 13:00 oh gosh, DUMBASS WARNING

  • And a year later, turns out a gas-powered dryer is less efficient than a electrically-powered one.

  • Pointless video, we don’t say we have 380V in europe just because we have 3 phase outlet.

  • 240V, WOW! EU has a 400V 3-phase circuits. Also, we have 5 wire topology (3x live wire, 1x neutral wire and 1x dedicated ground wire) since early 2000's, because its safer than 3 wire (ground wire integrated with neutral wire) in US. Also our middle range lines are 15 kV, compared to US 11kV. Murica, so genius xD

    • Distribution lines can be any of a number of different voltages in the US. It doesn’t matter to the customer.

  • I have a gas clothes dryer haha!!

  • 13:34 You know human bodies aren't a constant resistance, they change with voltage and current. Humans are weak insulators, which just means resistance changes -- close to zero with high voltage.

  • 9:22 Those 2 pins could also be coming into contact with the case. In case someone were to touch the panel's case, you wouldn't want the current going through the person -- but through a wire going straight to ground. That is, the lowest resistance path.

  • 17:32 Yes: you are correct. The Brits use 110V on building sites. Interestingly; there is a standard colour for extension leads for different voltages on site. 400V 3ph - Red, 240V 1ph, - Yellow, 110V (neutralized at 50V) - Blue. It is considered safer, as in the worst case scenario, one would only receive 50V rms to neutral.

  • Thank you, what an awesome explanation.

  • Ring mains in UK is very efficient a each outlet has ways of getting back to the distribution console mine has a main (single phase 230V) on/off for all electricity. Then 4 circuits, cooker 32A, pv 16A, lighting up stairs and down stairs lighting (ing circuit) both 6A. Then

    • Then Under Floor heating, down stairs, up stairs both ring circuit and two spares all 32A circuit breakers and a rcd for these. All non rcd are also circuit breakers. The consumer box is 14 1/2 in L 8in H X 4 1/2 in D, (Very small) the box is plastic I think under UK standards it has to be UL 94Vo, and the utility armoured cable is appropriately 3/4 in overall dia. All possable live contacts are not consumer accessible without taking them apart. We have very few electrical house fires. Due to the high currents in the US I my self would be more worried in this than getting electrocuted. Also the wiring I have seen on THreds re us electrical wiring looks messy, difficult to trace if you have a fault. Under UK standards you steel consumer box would be called a control panel and all mains points where you are able to be touched would have a cover over them as I think UL 508 stipulates or 508A control panel std. Thanks for a good explanation of a complex and very expensive electrical system. Also the video.

  • Here in Brazil we always use 3-phase-Y transformers, even on residential neighborhoods, which give us the choice of 1-phase 127V or 2-phase 220V. But to get things weirder, in some states the standard is different, with 1-phase 220V and 2-phase 380V, even though there are no residential appliances rated for that higher voltage.

  • Sure 240v is a lot but imagine 13,000 volts of power, that’s what’s being sent to my work at a coal plant. Of course it gets stepped down in a transformer and there’s standard 240v plugs and such but there’s no lapse in power, you aren’t going to trip a 240v “house plug” by running too many appliances off it, it’ll burn up the adaptor or power strip first

  • You know this is really just a great example of engineers solving safety hazards through different methods. When analyzing hazards you got two scales, likelyhood of injury, and severity of injury. In america, we decided to tackle the severity part, dropping the voltage and making it less likely to kill you as easily. In britian they tackled the likelyhood part, designing better plugs, leakage current detectors, ect. In both places they felt that these considerations brough the hazard level down to a point that was acceptable and moved on with their lives, not thinking about it much more after that.

  • I always knew we have 240, I have a window air conditioner that runs on it. Aaaand we got 480v as well. *Instantly Lethal*

  • In UK 240 volt supply will still be in tolerance down to 220 volt.

  • Really though your ground and neutral should be isolated.......

  • HAHAHA awesome video. Shoot even my school bus has 240v hook up @ 100amp service. Thanks this video was so comical and truthful. It's so sad how nit picky other people are from other countries blabbing on about our electric system when it has no bearing on them what so ever... Why be so pissy about it?

  • YOU are weird!

  • 240V @ 200A standard .. Nice ! (We have 230 V @ 3x25A = 230V @ 75A standard for a house here in NL)

  • As a New Zealander, I will never stop defended our wall plug switches. They're convenient! Yes, some products don't come with in-built power switches, and they immediately go to stand-by! Christmas lights especially are an even better example of this. And by invoking the switches on power bricks, you're kinda admitting that they are useful to be there. Also, they're just nice. They satisfy mild OCD.

  • Thanks for engaging with this "it's only the Amps that kill you" thing. As an electrical student I always found it strange. It's the Watts that kill you, and P=V^2/R. Of course, R is going to vary depending on the path and the contact, but still, that's the truth.

  • It's 120/240V... Everyone knows that

  • Tasty useful data! Nom, nom, nom.

  • As a military helicopter pilot, I can tell you that the worst shock you can endure, is the 115 V/400 Hz on your fingers ^^

  • Thank you from Italy for your clear and good explanation, here we have 240V ac single phase and also 400 V ac three phase (old saying 380V). At the same power consumption at 240Vac you need half conductive section respect your 120Vac, so less metal, so more sadness only for metal producters lobby.

  • "there are many things inside this box that can kill you..." Yeah, 60 of them each second! "Beware the wigglies" as we sparkys say :-)

  • in the next video: The EU electrical system is also not 240V ;)

  • Your 100-125V are probably the reason there aren't PC PSUs with more than 1600W... how am I supposed to power my Dual 3090/Dual OCed Xeon system???

  • I'm a maintenance technician and I've worked on 12 and 120 volt stuff for years and years. Also worked with 460, 2200, and 4160. Gotten bit by 120 many times, to the point it doesn't even bother me. I kinda chuckle when people are nervous around 120 or 12.

  • The power supply system in Taiwan works in the same way only the difference is that voltage is 110v and minus 110v

  • Fun fact: In Germany we get three phase/rotating current with each phase delivering 230v (rather 220-240V) in households. Our main kitchen appliances and some electric water heaters take 3phase 400v at 16 or 32 amp.

  • 6:35 - thankyou for showing yours so i dont have to see mine XD

  • That lower voltage to apartments may explain why my vacuum tube guitar amps don’t so good at home compared to other locations. For those that don’t know, although it can be desirable in some instances to have a “brown” sound as a mr Eddie van Halen is famous for (he lowered the voltage going into his old Marshall plexi tube amp with a device called a variac) it can be very undesirable especially when going for punchy high gain guitar tones that need clarity, definition, and that kick in the chest aggression for modern heavy metal. Since I play brutal metal I seek the full voltage my amps are specified to run on to get the most out of them. Now I’m going to have to test what is coming out of my outlets. 🧐

  • The contents of this video is of genre: Horror for Engineers

  • The UK plugs are so large it's impractical to have lots of stuff plugged in.

  • I wish you would have gone a bit more into explaining the phase bit.

  • This is wild wild west for me as electrician from Europe. Those circuit breakers looks like something from the 1970s.

  • OK, lets straighten this up... the outlets with switches on them are for 1 thing only.. when someone is vacuuming, you a third party can sneak up to the socket and turn it off. momentarily confusing the person vacuuming. OK! ;-)

  • One weird electricity overaction I've noticed as a welder: people think if they glance at the arc at any point they will be struck blind. They act like it's the ark of the covenant from Indiana Jones. Sure it's unpleasant if it happens when you are starting directly at the joint and your hood doesn't flip down but I've popped myself multiple times when I was learning and haven't experienced flash burns or eye damage at all. Sunburn for sure though

  • Wait, @18:30, did Alec just say "Stop Being so Pedantic". Who are you and what have you done with Alec Watson!?

  • Is it possible to operate my 220 Volt kettle in the US? Could there be an RCD on each wire?

  • well we have these european systems in iran but it is wierd and in breaker panel we can't have more than 8 MCBs & Its fragile as F aand that RCD wont save anyone at all!!! (it is more like AFCI)(RCD trips at 20ma IF IT IS WELL MADE But GFCI trips at 5ma IF WELL MADE TOO) Getting shock from US plug?! Really? Do you Guys play with plug & outlet or just Deaf and can't see where you put your hand over.(ELECTRICAL OUTLET &PLUG IS NOT TOY TO PLAY WITH) The shuko plugs also have shutters like in NA outlets so don't nag about it And that guy said that US is third world country 1st:come here to syria or Afghanestan to see what is third world country(or generally middle east) 2nd:JUST DON'T GO TO US OR IF YOU ARE THERE GO TO ANOTHER COUNTRY DON'T BE THERE NOBODY FORCED YOU

  • 13:21 natrual gas, tech connect musta been in a hurry.

  • Canada and the US should adopt the Japanese standards of insulator sleeving 1/4 of their prongs (similar to the newer OZ and NZ insulation sleeves). Then our plugs would be for a faster a 240V kettle and use it on 240V? Hz Cycle dont matrer cause theres no motor. Anything with from Korea or Phillippinnes as they run 240V 60Hz vs 50 Hz like EU or the majority of 220-250 V countries (if tool is not designed to tollerate 60Hz).....

  • Nice rant at the end, do you have an "international" plug review video?

  • A young Andy Rooney does THreds.

  • I'm from Argentina and when I was in High school a teacher onces told me this "Getting shoked at 120v its like been hit by a car, but getting shoked at 220v its like get hit by a truck"

    • @nowonmetube With the same wattage, yes, but you wouldn't get the same wattage. If you increase the voltage without also increasing the resistance, the wattage will go up. EDIT: I think a mistake a lot of people make when learning (and teaching) about power, is that they put I on an equal footing with U and R, which it really isn't. I isn't an independent variable, it's just a consequence of U and R. In reality the formula for power is P = U^2/R, or P = U * U / R.

    • @SoWhat1221 which I don't get: P = U * I If you increase U (voltage), then I (amper) automatically is lower with the same P (watt).

    • @robert upton He literally just explained in the video why that statement is stupid. For any given resistance (impedance, more accurately), higher voltage means higher current.

    • It's not the voltage, it's the amperage.

  • ok, but you forget that Germany has 380V or 240V on three phases Maybe Germany is great again:-)

  • Switches on power sockets… you know that thing you were saying on a different show, about arcing from sockets… plasma… welding electric outlets to the plugs? 🙄🙄🙄 all ya gotta do is flick the switch off!

  • i am a UK elec guy and i do agree with you, now tidy them cables up

  • Well in that case Poland is 430V Country XD

  • 220V is more dangerous than 120V, and 400V is even worse, no discussion about that. Electrocution danger is managed in Continental Europe (240/400V) by mandatory two current leak detectors (differentials) in the power cabinet. One for the whole house (300mA) and one (30 mA) for the bathroom and laundry room. Being an experimenter with electricity as from kids time, these systems have saved me at least 5 times my life.

  • I have lived in the us. Much prefer the UK electrical system. I am from the UK. The UK plugs are 3 pin. The earth is longer than the other power pins 2 so it is not possible to get a shock when plugging / unplugging The plug as the earth pin operates a cover inside the socket itself so the contacts can never be live until the plug is in fully. Also the cable exits the bottom of the plug not sticking out like the US plugs which means no strain on the cable itself and lowers accidental catching of the cable / trip hazard. The plugs have internal fuses so that each product can be controlled with its amperage I.E 13 amp for say a TV or 3 or 5 amp for a table lamp. so people do not have to go to the consumer unit and mess with that, just replace that fuse in the plug. The ring main is normally 30 amps. ( sometimes 20 amp) for the upper floors. Finally if you pull the cable /damage the plug and disconnect the internals of the plug the earth lead is longer than the 2 short live and neutral cables and will remain connected and be the last cable that will disconnect so another safety feature of the UK plugs. As for ring mains they are cheaper to install. everything is controlled by one circuit.. simple. Also all our consumer units have by law an RCD device that trips the power and on individual circuits a MCB circuits to prevent an electrical shock if it senses a potential electrical difference. They are more than just a fuse / switch. I like the fact that i can leave a plug in the socket and switch it off in situ.. you don't then accidentally stand on a plug or have to go fishing for it behind something when you need it... makes more sense. don't know why you find this so annoying it is safer and easier. But you can also turn off the device with its own switch if you need to also. Also putting those transformers on poles as you do in the US is insane... all our power is underground to the local sub station, so no accidental car accidents into poles bringing down power on the road etc. The power to the sub stations is still like yours carried on power lines though... and yes in construction we by law must use 110 volt power and tools. but that is not generally available to the average household as you also have to buy the transformer to go with the tools. Also we have three live incomers into the house ( 3 phases) the power company uses any one it wishes to when connecting the house to the power grid so we can also have 415 volts if we so wish... I have 415v, 230v and 110v as I also use my construction tools when working on my house.. ah the choice and safety.... love it.

    • @GH1618 It is still safer to have 3 pins on every electrical outlet so that anything plugged in that needs a ground automatically has it. But everything i saw when i lived in the US like a TV, stereos, dvd player, lamp etc used a standard 2 pin... in the normal 120v connection, i only saw 3 pins on dryers etc. Was in the early 2000's might have changed since then, The UK plug system has been around since the late 50's when plugs were standardized. I find it quite amazing that as one country you have different laws and codes in different states... it is standard in the UK, I.E. England, Ireland, Scotland and wales to have the same electrical code and laws period.

    • The US system also has 3 pin plugs, and the ground pin is also longer than the others. Not everything needs the ground pin, however, so 2 pin plugs are common. We also have receptacles with a shutter which opens only when a plug is inserted. They are required in some jurisdictions. I hate them. I bought some cheap ones to pass an inspection, then replaced with better ones without the shutter.

  • Watching carefully a video explaining the functioning of the power distribution system in the US and gravitating countries it seems to me that the system was conceived with a dose of Edison’s legacy (reduced operating voltage) as a compromise to Tesla generally accepted in the developed world. As a graduate power engineer, I recall apprenticeships during my studies and later in technical practice on the logical technical doctrine of symmetrical sources and loads to protect the system from asymmetry thus keeping phase voltages within the specified limits prescribed by technical regulations through the Electricity Laws. So my compatriot Nikola Tesla had a vision of how a three-phase production, transmission and distribution system should be technically organized and make efforts to distribute all single-phase consumers in phases so that only an unbalanced phase current difference flows through the Zero-conductor. This is a key thing that ensures the amplitude and phase symmetry of the voltages at the terminals. The protection systems in the TNC and TNC-S distribution systems with good (low) ground resistance of the N-conductor and the working earthing of the connected object enable the unavoidable use of a current protection switch (FID - German abbreviated name). excludes any occurrence of contact voltage on the metal masses-housings of the devices that can be touched, even during a fault. European socket and connection systems are already superior at first glance and no need to waste words of comparison, they are practical and have better protection. And finally the system is unified in each socket you can plug in any appliance as needed. We know that power depends on the square of the voltage and that says a lot about higher voltage, thinner wire and lower Joule losses. By balancing the load currents in phases, we protect the machines in the system from unnecessary stress, voltage and heat, and thus extend their service life by delivering safe and quality electricity. I was pleased to give my expert opinion and clarify the details in a related but different electricity distribution system.

  • Never been to the US but very surprised to see that nobody seems to have lowered the entrance of the plugs so that the exposed contacts get sealed. Wtf.

    • @GH1618 Moving the female part further into the wall so that when the plug makes contact, the still exposed parts are no more touchable.

    • I don’t know what you mean “lowered the entrance,” but the plugs work well as they are now, and we would not want any redesign which was not compatible with existing equipment. The most prevalent problem we have with our 120V connections is with cheap or worn-out (probably both) receptacles which don’t grip the prongs snugly.

  • In terms of neutral vs ground, you should remember that electricity always takes the path of least resistance to get back to its source. Therefore, the neutrals job is just to complete the circuit and maintain balanced voltage across your AC system. Given the charger's equal load it likely is in no need of balanced voltage, and can safely operate. In the event of the circuit, electricity is alternating to and from the panel, grid, etc. In the case of a ground wire, we give all metal (conductive) materials electricity is near a low resistant path back to the source via the panel bonding, but it is very important that this only exist at the source given the risk of accidentally charging many unexpected items throughout your home if a fault occurs. In regards to grounding to the... ground (earth) via a rod, we are handling external forces (i.e. lighting), and giving them a path back to their source. There's a misconception that if we are grounded while working with electricity we are safe. This is untrue, as electricity is fully willing to pass through you, through the ground, on it's way back to its source. In any case, current flowing through your heart will kill you.

  • George Foreman Grills don't have a switch.

  • The reason being that there are definitely circumstances where you can be shocked AND the breaker still will not trip. This is why GFCI exists to be even more particularly sensitive, but even then, it's only rated to keep from killing the average human (many kids wouldn't provide enough resistance and would likely die).

  • What does happen when the central tap is broken?

  • In Poland we usually have one big main RCD (maybe more in big installations) and everything runs through it.

  • Grüße aus Deutschland... 230V pro Phase...

  • "You're weird." lol Also the rant at the end about electric water showers in Britain. That is no bullshit, right there. Like, who approved those?

  • 4:51 the angry eyebrows on the house have serious Trogdor energy.

  • I did a spit-take when that 60 Hz hum hit, I know the channel too well at this point for it to trick me! It was very funny.

  • When I check voltage it usually less than 120. More like 110 or sometimes even less, like in the upper 90s! Granted my gauge could be off and I live near the end of a line on a lightly populated street, although they are redoing the lines that lead to my house so we'll see what happens. What I really want to change is to get cable TV/internet. The phone DSL sucks and even the dedicated cell Wi-Fi I have sucks compared to cable internet just a mile or so from my house!

  • Just a little note: The phase to phase U. S.A. voltage 208 = 120 X SquareRoot(3) In the U. K. 415 = 240 X SquareRoot(3) I read elsewhere in these comments that our nominal phase to phase voltage is now 400 therefore single phase is around 400 / SquareRoot(3) = 230.9 . Anyway, as an electrician in the UK I thought I'd share!! Additionally, I'd love to see a three phase panel over in the USA after seeing that setup!! Does that mean an additional transformer would be added for your 240 equipment, I guess so?! Elsewhere in these comments I read about load balancing. In the UK each house has just a single phase supply (Unless you have a castle, mansion or palace.) So three houses would have one on each phase. The EARTH or CPC is often combined with the neutral layer of the supply cable in what is known as a TN-C-S setup. Additional earth spikes or rods are often added to areas in order to reduce the earth fault loop impedance so that protective RCD and MCB breakers work according to our Electrical Regulations. RCD is sometimes called an earth leakage breaker. Anyway I thought you might like the bit of maths (math)!!

    • In the USA, apartments might be served with 3-phase power, so have 120/208 VAC, but most residences have singl (or split) phase 120/240 VAC.

  • Australia here... we also have 400v at the transformer

  • The electrical resistance of a human body varies greatly. Some people have a high resistance and are therefore safer from electric shock. Other things to consider are wet locations, if the skin was broken, path of the current. If the current passes from one side of your hand to the other side your fine at lower voltage. If it goes from one hand all the way to the other hand it may pass your heart and cause a cardiovascular dance party 🥳 in your chest.

  • Japan is 100V. 50Hz west half, 50 Hz east half. Other countries have 110-125v 60Hz. or 220-250V 50Hz.

    • 60 Hz west half, 50 Hz east half.

  • Then to really muddy the waters RMS voltage is 240 but peak to peak is 339 volts

  • well... it's more like two 120V sources hiding in a 240V jacket.

    • It is what it is. A picture is better than words.

  • UK power is so much safer. Starting with the basics plugs are much safer, much of the pin area being insulated and fit securely and wobble free into the sockets. Additionally, the live and neutral pins in the socket are shuttered, which means that until the longer earth pin is inserted, objects cannot be inserted into the live wires. Each 13 amp plug can be fitted with a fuse rated for the appliance, for instance, a 3amp for a light up to 13amp for a washing machine. A typical house will have at least 2 ring mains, often more, one for the kitchen sockets and at least one for the rest of the house. A ring main consists of 3 2.5mm wires in each cable: live, neutral and earth. The cable run, as the name suggests, starts and finishes in the same place and within that run, sockets are spliced in. The feed into the socket is connected to cable to the next socket and so on, each ring not exceeding 100 square metres. We use sophisticated RCDs a which will trip in less than 40ms. Rather than huge boxes, our consumer units are compact. mine for instance has 2 breakers for lighting, 1 for upstairs and 1 for down, each protected by an RCD on separate bus bars. Added to that, 2 32Amp for sockets, 1 for kitchen sockets,1 for outdoor wiring, 1 for the cooker, 1 for smoke and carbon dioxide detectors. These are split between 2 busbars which ensures that some power is always available. It is neat, efficient and safe, using a fraction of the cable required for a radial system and in my opinion, certainly much safer than the US system

  • Good stuff. Thanks for making this video

  • Here in Argentina we have 220v between phase and neutral. For commercial use, constructions and very large houses a three-phase connection is used with 120 degrees offset phases. which give 380v between phases and 220 between any of the 3 and neutral. also by regulation all breakers have to cut both phase and neutral. and each circuit must always be supplied with an individual ground connection of the neutral

  • Save yourself and skip this douche.

  • 120v for us and 230v for eu is just a value we have so non electritians dont get confused, in eu we have a peak of 325 volts i our powwerlines and thats couse we have ac wich has a sinewave wich goes from 325v to -325v

  • damn you would have 10 more volts then us

  • if the neutral wire is going back to the transformer that means that the neutral wire is taking current back to the grid and that would mean that the Electrical compony charging us over and over for the power we are using. the way to check this is to measure the current through the neutral wire.

    • You are paying for the energy you use. The meter figures that out somehow.

    • You pay for power not current. The current in the neutral is the same as the links in the lower half of a bicycle chain.

  • Almost every home in Sweden uses three phase power. Except appartments, they usaly have single or two phase (except 3 phase for the electric stove). One reason the have three phase may be that many have primary or secondary heating via electric heating element of the waterheater tank. Then pump the warm water to the radiators. Direct electric heating radiators is also common. Our house (we live by the artic circle fyi) has 3 x 25A primary fuses. A benifit for three phase is that you can move three times the power for just an extra wire. We have 230V for D-configuration or 400V for Y-configuration. Our main electric heating element is 10kw in Y-configuration. So it pulls 25A total (Around 8.3A per phase). This would be impractival if we would not have the higher voltage. But our main heating for our home is a pellets burner. We use the electric heating for backup.

  • Sir, thank you for this video. You explained the panel very well. I've studied Electronics and have mostly done DC wiring for all my little projects. In fact I'm using your 12 car battery with inverter back up system right now. Great Video. Anyway, I've often went to my home panel and tried to figure out the diagram. I also found the 240 and 120 VAC measurements but didn't understand the interlaced layout or the double wide 240 VAC breaker format until now. Boy this sure would have been nice when I was given a free 240 volt dryer for free. I got it home just to discover my home only had 120 volt receptacles. In those days I could not afford to have an electrical contractor come in and install one and in California, there would have been paperwork involved and another fee for that as well. If only I had known what you have just shown back then. I ended up giving away that dryer to save some space. Today, I'm into all kinds of projects especially involving solar. This video is extremely useful to me. Thanks. Oh, and I love your end of video rant. I've had many with my UK and overseas friends hahaha. They are just jealous that we stopped listening to their nonsense and started our own country. They can't believe that we think for ourselves and had the audacity to become the most powerful country in the world. But I digress. Cheers.

  • I can't believe how remarkably simple this made understanding electrical phases.